KUNUNURRA (WYNDHAM)

Marlgu  Billabong brolgas

Dreamtime Statues, Wyndham

Beth and a Valley Kangaroo

Tess and the Valley Kangaroo

Ben and the wallaby

Bridgie and the wallaby

Wyndham Port looking out to the Durack River

DAY 42 – KUNUNURRA (WYNDHAM)                                                                   Saturday, 13^th August

Awake early this morning – like at 3AM.  Friday night football in Kununurra is obviously a BIG affair.  Parties EVERYWHERE ALL NIGHT.  In fact, as I write this at 6am (almost lunchtime for me!) the parties are STILL going on!!  The caravan parks awake as the locals go to bed in this town! As David went on his early morning walk, he saw so many people passed out on the footpath, but more seriously, in the middle of the road.  So sad.

Off to Wyndam today – and I have very mixed feelings about it.  We went to Wyndham via a 4WD track which was pretty uninteresting (although my beautiful husband finds EVERYTHING interesting!!) except for Marlgu Billabong where we saw an enormous amount of bird life – big brolgas, green pygmy geese, cormorants, whiskered terns, whistling kites etc. Beth was great today.  As she sat beside me in the birdhide she said:  “Mum I have learnt so much about birds on this holiday.  Before we came on holidays, I thought they were pretty boring but now I am really interested and know a lot about them.”  She is amazing the way she can pick a Whistling Kite from a Black Buzzard etc.

After that we headed straight to Wyndham for toilets and lunch.  We drove through Wyndham and blinked and almost missed it, drove on to Wyndham Port which was a deserted because it was a Saturday but it was obvious that a fair amount of iron ore is transported onto the barges there.  We must have seen 5 or 6 road trains, each with four trailers just in the time we were there.  We drove back into Wyndham and up to the Five Ways lookout where the Durack, Pentecost, Ord, Forrest and King Rivers all meet the Cambridge Gulf.  It was such an amazing view and such an enormous expanse of water.  After lunch we drove back down into Wyndham and had a look at the Dreamtime Statues which was set up in the Bicentennial Year as a beautiful park celebrating the Aboriginal dreamtime.  But it is so derelict …  as is the whole town.  There were two “sobering up” or “rehabilitation” centres in the town, which I suppose is good, but the number of Aborigines affected by alcohol and apparently living in the street was shocking.  It just made me so sad, I suppose, because of the feeling of hopelessness and powerlessness – and that was just ME. 

On our way back we stopped at an Art Gallery and found the owner was a wildlife rescue worker who happened to be feeding two joeys just as we got there.  You can imagine the kids!!  One was a 6 month old Valley Kangeroo and the other a slightly older wallaby.  All the kids got to hold them and play with them which was fantastic.  No doubt that will go down in the journals as a real buzz.

Had a good chat with Kevin and Alannah from Melbourne and their children, Caleb and Tess, at the pool this afternoon.  It is always good to talk to people about what they have done and what they are planning on!  We have met some lovely people along the way.

KUNUNURRA

Our babies on their first flight!!!

Spillway Creek coming from Lake Argyle towards Kununurra

The many "islands" created because Lake Argyle is in flood

This is Lake Argyle Resort to the right of the dam wall - in the middle of nowhere!

This is Pannikin Bay lookout (the white bit right in the middle of the photo) where we had sunset - the Hansen family alone in the middle of nowhere - just amazing.

the Bungle Bungles from the air

the Bungle Bungles from the air

The Argyle Diamond Mine

Some of the 76,000 hectares under crop at Kununurra, supported by the damming of the Ord River.

Beside our little plane!

DAY 41 – KUNUNURRA                                                                                 Friday, 12^th August

Up early this morning for our very exciting flight over the Bungle Bungles, courtesy of winning the first prize at the Parish Dinner – what luck!!!!

Beth had been on a light plane before but the others had not, so it was going to be quite an experience.  It was just the Hansen family and one other passenger on the 8 seater plane, and a very young (and Beth thought quite handsome) pilot!!

The faces on the little ones when we took off were just so special!  They could not believe it when the plane got off the ground.  We flew over Kununurra and then along Spillway Creek up to Lake Argyle.  From the air you really get a great idea of the size of this lake.  It is classed as an inland sea so any vessel on the water must be classed as ocean going.  Especially, this year, when it has been in flood it is absolutely huge. Capacity is actually at 180% - work that one out mathematicians!  It appears to have so many islands dotted around the Lake but in fact many are just part of the mainland but the water level is so high that the low lying land has been inundated with water. 

We flew further over Lissadell Station and Texas Downs Station which are both huge.  The flight was a little turbulent over the land but once over the water it was very calm.  Ben was the first to call for the vomit bag, which he held close to his mouth for much of the trip.  But poor Beth and Tess were the ones to USE it!!  They felt better after that.  Poor Mummy was the one who had to hold it for the rest of the flight.  Only “iron guts” David and Bridget were the ones to successfully negotiate small aircraft travel!!

Purnululu National Park (the Bungle Bungles) is extraordinary and you get such a great view from the plane of the tiger striped beehive domes.  The pilot was great, giving us some great flyovers of the gorges – lots of wing-dipping which the kids loved.  On the way back we flew over the Argyle Diamond Mine which was very extensive.  I had no idea!  Apparently they supply about one-quarter of the world’s diamonds, including the Pink Argyle Diamond.  They are so concerned about security that when they fly the diamonds out of the mine, which has its own airstrip, they often conduct “dummy flights” as well so no one knows on which plane the diamonds are travelling!!!

The kids all had a ball, despite the air sickness!!  And the pilot was very complimentary, saying how polite our children were – always nice to hear.

Mummy needed to recover from her queasiness when we got back so had a lazy lunch before heading off around Kununurra to see the Zebra Rock Gallery.  I just love the Zebra Rock and would dearly love to buy all the ladies in my life some beautiful pieces, but it is just so expensive.  We saw some lovely pieces, even wine racks!!  Just stunning.  Also saw some lovely Aboriginal art galleries.  I really had no idea of the extent of different Aboriginal styles of painting throughout Australia, from the traditional acrylic on canvas dot style paintings of Central Australia to the traditional rock art style of the Top End and Arnhem Land, to the ochre paintings of the Kimberley.  Have not managed to find the exact painting that we want for our home yet (except for the stunning ones I found at the Mindil Beach Markets for $2000!) but am hoping that Reggie Sultan may be able to paint one for us.

LAKE ARGYLE TO KUNUNURRA

Remember those days when you used to be able to wash the car with a hose?  Great slave labour, though!!

At Ivanhoe Crossing

The Kununurra Hoochery - rum not as good as Bundy!

Sunset at Kelly's Knob overlooking Kununurra

Sunset at Kelly's Knob

The Girls

The Boys

DAY 40 – LAKE ARGYLE – KUNUNURRA                                 Thursday, 11^th August

As our body clocks are still adjusting, everyone is still up well before 5:30am at the moment (except for Tess, of course!)  So we showered, dressed, had breakfast and washed the car, all before 7:30 in the morning!!  We farewelled Peter and Kath, from Perth, who had kindly shared their wine (since we were all out and don’t have a fridge to keep it cold even if we did have some!) and their knowledge of WA with us the previous evening.  Off to Kununurra ….

We arrived very early – too early to check in – so did some shopping and spoke with a lovely lady in the Information Centre about what we are going to do in Kununurra.  After checking in, getting a ride around the park in a golf buggy picking out our site (kids were very funny when they saw us and all raced to catch up and get in too – seven people in a golf buggy must be a record!), we then set off to explore Kununurra.

We went first to Ivanhoe Crossing which is passable sometimes in the dry season but the wet season has been so prolific this year that it is still not passable and they only have two months until the start of the next wet season.  They just have SOOO much water here, they have no idea what to do with it all.  And the water is beautiful.  We have been filling up our caravan tank because we have been told the water down the west coast is all bore water and very brackish.

Went to one of the stonemason’s here who cuts the famous Zebra Rock, driving through all the amazing crop growing here.  75,000 hectares under crop, thanks to the damming of the Ord River and the Diversion Dam at Lake Kununurra.  Just amazing.  Then out to the Hoochery for a taste of their rum which, is the oldest surviving legal distillery in WA.  The Sandalwood Factory is out there too and it was interesting to watch the video on the production of Sandalwood here and how it is grown.  We couldn’t work out why it seemed to be planted in amongst other plants in what seemed like a very ad hoc manner, but it is a parasitic tree which needs host trees to feed off.

We went up to Kelly’s Knob at sunset for a great view of Kununurra.

David was given some great advice when he talked to people about fishing and whether there were crocodiles in the water.  He was told not to worry too much and if he wanted he could get a dog from the pound and make sure the croc gets that before it gets you!  Sorry Dee, I know that it appalling but apparently that is what the locals do!!

LAKE ARGYLE

Beth and her friend, the Whistling Kite

Near the Ord River Dam wall

Bridgie and her first fish!  Beth was appalled.

Ben and his first fish.  Pa would be so proud.

Sunset over Pannikin Bay, Lake Argyle

Our little family - alone at sunset on Pannikin Bay!  Words cannot express ....

Loving the quiet and the music.

Sunset over Pannikin Bay.  So romantic.

DAY 39 – LAKE ARGYLE                                                             Wednesday, 11^th August

Today was a very relaxing day.  It has been a new experience for us – trekking in the Top End.  Whereas in Central Australia, all of us could walk all day with no problems, up here it is much more difficult.  In Central Australia, we were walking in temperatures up to 21 or 22 degrees.  Here we are walking in temperatures of 31 – 33 degrees and often it is 25 or more degrees by 9am.  So this morning, we lazed around after breakfast.  The last two mornings Mummy and Daddy have been told to “go off and have a romantic time”.  So we would head off for a shower and then not be permitted back into the caravan for half an hour.  Our beautiful children had been tidying the whole van, making beds, sweeping, cleaning up after breakfast so that Mum and Dad “could have a relax”!!  So beautiful.

We drove down to see the Dam Wall and the amazing amount of water pouring out of only one of the three valves operating at the Hydro Electric Station.  That one valve at the moment is keeping the Ord River running.  We went to some great vantage points around this part of the lake and it is just astonishing how far the lake goes. 

I then had the fascinating experience of watching my beautiful husband try to teach his children to fish.  Absolutely hysterical!  Even though David tried to tell the kids it was all going to be fine because people call him “David, the great fisherman”, Ben replied:  “Dad, I have never heard anyone call you ‘David, the great fisherman’.  So there we were at the boat ramp at Lake Argyle, with David trying to attach sinkers and hooks and bait, Beth practically crying at the injustice of all this senseless murdering of wildlife, and Tess going pale and almost fainting at Dad trying to cut a catfish off the hook!!  After witnessing for much of my childhood, my expert father, grandfather, uncles, cousins etc fishing and catching numerous fish with ease, this was an absolutely hysterical sight!!  After telling Beth to put up or shush up and putting Tess’ head between her knees, all the while trying to give my husband consoling looks and telling him we had to put up with numerous discussions about “sedimentary, metamorphic and igneous rocks” so he could damn well put up with an hour’s fishing, we managed to catch three catfish or possibly black bream!!

Back for a swim before heading up to Pannikin Bay lookout (not far) for sunset.  Words cannot describe how beautiful this was.  Just the Hansen family – alone on a rocky outcrop, overlooking Pannikin Bay, with a cloudless sky, drinks in hand, Geoffrey Garamul Yunnipingu playing softly in the background.  The silence was deafening in its beauty.  The photos just cannot do it justice but it was one of the more spectacular moments with my family.  We are so blessed to have been able to share these times with one another and to experience such beauty around us and within each other.

LAKE ARGYLE

Playing games in the dirt outside the Durack Homestead, Argyle Station

The reconstructed Durack Homestead

On Lake Argyle aboard the Kimberley Durack

Beth had a drive of the boat

As did Tess.

Ben took it very seriously.

Bridgie thought she WAS the captain.

Father and Son on the Kimberley Durack

What a great adventure for us to remember in our old age.

Sunset over Lake Argyle

All went for a dip with the 35,000 freshwater crocodiles!!!

How's the serenity?!?!?!

DAY 38 – LAKE ARGYLE                                                      Tuesday, 9^th August

We have just spent the most magical day at Lake Argyle.  I have to say, at the outset, that I was a bit non-plussed about Lake Argyle.  I kind of knew where it was (ie. In the middle of nowhere in the bush), and knew that my dear husband had intentions of “seeing” lots of things, but apart from that, I had pretty low expectations …. which is often when you are most surprised.

Lake Argyle is magnificent – and the pictures I have taken just won’t do it justice.  It is HUGE!!  And when I say huge, I mean that, in the wet season, the amount of water rushing through the Ord River could fill Sydney Harbour in 1 hour!!!  Even now, in the dry season, the amount of water gushing over the spillway in four hours, is enough water to supply every single one of us (22million Australians) with our daily water consumption of 300 litres!  Unbelievable! 

This morning we went on a walk (left at 8am – but already soooo hot!) to the revamped Durack Homestead.  The original homestead was flooded when the dam was built in 1973.  The Durack family is such an interesting one and must have had such enormous drive and passion to do what they did.  Aunty Noeleen was telling me she has just finished reading “Kings in Grass Castles” which is the story of their land holdings in Queensland.  “Sons in the Saddle” is the story of their foray into the WA Kimberley region and both were written by Mary Durack, the granddaughter of Patrick Durack who came to Australia from Ireland in 1853.  They ended up with a million acre holding (which is the largest permitted in Australia) and, basically, you cannot see the extent of their property with the naked eye, in spite of being able to see …. forever.

We have just come back from a 3 hour cruise on Lake Argyle which was absolutely spectacular as well as being very informative.  To give you some idea …. at one point, we can see Western Australia but the lake is too vast for us to see the Northern Territory, on the other side of the lake, beyond the curvature of the earth!!  We took a Sunset Cruise which takes you on a great tour of a very small part of the lake (given that it is the biggest freshwater lake in Australia) and show you some of the 35,000 freshwater crocodiles that live there.  It culminates in a pause in the tour where you can get off and swim in the lake whilst having soft music and wine and cheeses!! The sun sets at about 5:15pm here which confuses us a bit – because the sun set at around 7pm the night before.   The sunset and setting is amazing and words cannot describe how beautiful it is – I just wish you could have all been here to share it with us.

The man next to us had been here for two and a half months.  He left today.  I am sure that had nothing to do with our four children.  Actually, we have been receiving such nice comments about our cherubs as we have been cruising around.  (I did say to David that it is unlikely the nasty comments are going to be said to our face …).  Most people are very complimentary and it is so nice for parents to hear that others think their children are well behaved!!

TIMBER CREEK - LAKE ARGYLE

Following in the footsteps of Augustus Gregory, outside Timber Creek NT

The kids with one foot in the NT and one foot in WA!

Made it!!

The most amazing pool in the world, Lake Argyle

Hopefully the kids know how lucky they are to experience this so young!!

What IS over the other side of this wall?

Butter wouldn't melt ...

Lake Argyle at sunset from the pool

David in the pool at sunset - just spectacular.  It was even better in real life!

Ben contemplates ... on the edge of the world.

The girls enjoying each other!!

DAY 37 – TIMBER CREEK TO LAKE ARGYLE                             Monday, 8^th August

Left Timber Creek and went out to see the Gregory Tree which is just off the highway but on 3kms of unsealed corrugated road so we unhitched the caravan and drove in to see the Boab trees.  These are amazing – they just started to appear out of nowhere.  Augustus Gregory inscribed the 2^nd July 1853 into the tree during his expedition there.  Because his boat was partially destroyed at Timber Creek, he spent 9 months at the camp site, milling timber to patch up his boat.  He and his team built vegetable gardens and pens for the sheep.  The tenacity of these explorers just stuns me – as I do what they did, but on sealed roads, with cars with air-conditioning, and caravan parks with electricity and hot water and flushing toilets.  Admittedly, I do have four children …. so we are probably equal in terms of degree of difficulty, now that I think about it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

After that we drove straight to the border where a very nice, but very efficient, Quarantine Officer took our remaining apple, all our potatoes, sweet potato, onion, honey and, most importantly, Tess’s constant companion since Central Australia – Edwina, her pet Camel Melon.  You would think that some bright spark would have set up a WA fruit and veg stall just down the road, but alas, no.  So we have arrived here at Lake Argyle with only canned vegetables (thank God I bought some of those) and no honey for my crumpets – sacrilege!! 

When we arrived at Lake Argyle “Resort” checked out the “store” where they sell vegetables, one by one, and charge like a wounded bull.  Anyway, we decided to check out the pool because it was just so hot.  I could not believe it when I saw it!  The most stunning pool I have ever seen in my life!  It was an infinity pool looking out over the lake and gorges.  Just superb.  The pictures, I am sure, will not do it justice, but it was just unbelievable.  Even I had to get in!!  Got the most beautiful pictures at sunset too.

Of course the hour and a half time difference really messed me around so I was falling asleep by 8pm.  Which is further complicated by the fact that you are then awake at 5am because that is sunrise.  It does mean that by 9am you are ready for lunch!!