DARWIN

Loving brother and sister at the Old Town Hall, Darwin

Poking their heads of the Cell Block B at Fannie Bay Gaol

DAY 30 – DARWIN                                                                           Monday, 1^st August

Woke up to a stunningly gorgeous day in Darwin!!  A casual morning walking around the heritage sites of old Darwin.  It was interesting to see the Anglican church and old Museum which had been so extensively damaged during Cyclone Tracy.  Then off to see the WWII oil storage tunnels which were used to store fuel for aircraft and ships underground so that they could not be bombed.  The kids were really interested.  It is so great to see your children develop and to have enormously important discussions with them about war and its futility.  Beth is so beautifully and innocently idealistic, just explaining to me how easy it is to avoid war and you “just walk away”. 

With the Endeavour at Stokes Hill Wharf

From there we went to Myilly Point Heritage Precinct to have a look at some houses built in the 30s for government officials.  They so reminded me of holiday houses down at the Gold Coast, especially “Waverney”, where I spent so many childhood holidays.  Louvres and open plan, with the breeze blowing through, no fly screens and timber floors.  Just beautiful.  The kids were very excited to find the bullet holes in the upstairs louvres and the bullet holes in the front fence.   I had no idea that Darwin and the whole Top End was bombed so extensively by the Japanese for 18 months from February 1942.  I think more than 60 raids.

We had lunch in the Darwin Botanic Gardens before heading to Fannie Bay Gaol for a look at how prisoners lived between 1883 and 1979.  It was enormously primitive with the maximum security section, being the first building built in the 1880’s, still used until the end.  It showed mattresses made of straw and an amazing set of Aboriginal paintings which had been painted onto the cell walls.  In the infirmary was a great explanation of the last two men (incidentally the ONLY white men) to be hanged in the Northern Territory in 1952.  It was pretty confronting to explain to my babies what it meant to be hanged and show them what the gallows looked like.

We discovered by chance that The Endeavour (the replica of Captain Cook’s ship) was going to be docking today at Stokes Hill Wharf.  As Beth had been learning all about his voyages, we decided to go down to take a look. We couldn’t get on board until Wednesday (when we will be going to Kakadu) but it was great to see it up closely.  It will be in Melbourne in March and Beth would love to go on board and have a good look around then. 

Home for a swim before Daddy’s famous chicken and avocado fettucine and bed!!

DARWIN

How romantic!

DAY 29 – DARWIN                                                                                   Sunday, 31^st July

What a big day!

Started off with Mass at the cathedral which was fantastic.  The Bishop was so down to earth and spoke so well (such a change from the Bishops I am familiar with!).  He even came up to me after Mass and welcomed me and invited me over to the hall for a cuppa!  The Darwin Cup is tomorrow so it was the official blessing of the racing season at Mass today and the Darwin Cup and other assorted whips, helmets, saddles and even a bookies’ bag was there.  The kids were even able to have their photo taken with it all!

After cordial and cake at the hall, David took us on a drive around the city and we stopped at the wharf to have a look around.  There appeared to be some naval exercises taking place so, using my trusty iPhone, we googled the naval base and found out that HMAS Darwin was in port and was open to the public.  What a scoop!  So we popped aboard and had a look around a Guided Missile Frigate.  The kids loved it and there was a fair bit of eye candy for me too!!!

From there we headed to the Leanyer Recreation Park which is a fantastic park with BBQs, playground, skate parks, pools and waterslides all for free run by Northern Territory Parks and Wildlife!!  The kids had a ball (as did “big kid David”) on all the waterslides!  Great afternoon.

Then off to the Mindil Beach markets for some serious retail therapy and dinner on the beach watching the sunset.  Just simply gorgeous.  Chilli squid and dahl, honey chicken, crocodile kebabs, dim sims, spring rolls, fish and chips!!  And a sunset to die for!!  And guess what?  The temperature doesn’t drop when the sun goes down!!!!  The photos won’t do it justice but I will give it a try.  Met up with our “new best friends” from the Batchelor caravan park on the beach believe it or not.  But then again, I think the whole of Darwin was there.  As David says, you would think it was the last sunset on earth!!  But absolutely stunning.

BATCHELOR TO DARWIN (VIA BERRY SPRINGS)

Getting a kiss from a Blue Tongue Lizard

Sarah feeding a whipray at the Territory Wildlife Park

Beth with Ruby the Rufous Owl

Tess with Ruby, the Rufous Owl

Bridget sailing down Berry Springs

DAY 28 – BATCHELOR TO DARWIN (VIA BERRY SPRINGS)               Saturday, 30^th July

Up early this morning – left Batchelor at 7:30 in order to get to the Territory Wildlife Park for the first talk at 9am.  However, because of a “little” kilometre and time calculation error by the wife, we managed to get there at 8:15am!!  Oh well, always better to be early than late!  So the Hansen clan and caravan were the first lined up outside the gate.

The Territory Wildlife Park was fantastic!  We had a talk at the Billabong where we learnt how many of their freshwater crocodiles and barramundi swam right out of the park and out to sea during Cyclone Carlos in February because the water level was so high!  There were two Pelican chicks there which grow to full adult size in three months!!  Beth liked hearing how the babies throw a tantrum and scream for their parents when the parents eventually leave them.

Then off to the Oolloo Sandbar for a talk on Whiprays, Barramundi and Archer Fish.  I was lucky enough to be one of the people able to feed the Whiprays which was amazing!  They are so soft underneath their disk and beautiful to be up close and personal with these animals.  We then saw the Birds of Prey exhibition which was a favourite with us all.  We saw a Buzzard, Suflur Crested and Black Cockatoo, and Rainbow Lorikeets, a Brown Kite, and an Osprey.  We then saw the Barn Owl, Ruby, the Rufous Owl (which all the children got to hold) and the Barking Owl (which believe it or not barks like a dog).  The Peregrine Falcon was beautiful but my favourite was the Wedge-Tailed eagle which are just stunning birds – so strong.

We had a talk at the Noctural House about the Fruit Bat and then went through the Aquarium which was really interesting.  Well worth going to!

We popped into Berry Springs for a dip on the way into Darwin.  Beautiful warm water and we swam all the way down, with the current, from Berry Springs past the Main Waterhole to the end and then back, Tess being a dolphin and pulling her Mum on the boogie board all the way!  The kids have been amazing with their stamina.  We were so impressed with how they were able to swim all the way back against the current.

We did not get into Darwin until later than normal but we are so looking forward to exploring the capital city tomorrow.  Can’t believe we have finally reached the north of Australia having traversed the Stuart Highway all the way from Port Augusta to Darwin, a distance of 2,834 kilometres!!  I am in awe of John McDouall Stuart which did it 150 years ago without roads, cars, lovely caravan parks on the way …  We have now travelled over 7000 kilometres on our little journey!!  We are so fortunate to have seen so much of this beautiful country of ours.  And so much left to see!!

BATCHELOR (LITCHFIELD NATIONAL PARK)

Had to put this in ... this kind of sibling loving doesn't happen all the time!!

Beth with a paperbark

Tess swimming at the Cascades

Washing their hair in the warm water at the Cascades

The family at Wangi Falls

DAY 27 – BATCHELOR (LITCHFIELD NATIONAL PARK)                      Friday, 29^th July

Great day today.  Headed off around 9:30am further into the National Park and got to Walker Creek which is about 85 kms away.  The most interesting thing about Litchfield so far has been how big it is!  And everything seems to be on the other side of the park to Batchelor.  Walker Creek has about eight campsites which each have a waterhole or creek beside them so we walked to each of them and then the kids and David had a swim at the last one which was lovely.  So secluded and for part of the time, we were the only ones there. 

We then drove to the Cascades which are a series of waterfalls which you can only get to by walking through the “forest” and then conducting several creek crossings which are interesting with four small children!  Daddy was a real legend – helping us all over the big rocks!!  The rockpool was just beautiful and we had it all to ourselves.  David put the kids on a ledge under the waterfall and they all pretended, for Mum’s sake, that they were washing themselves and their hair so that they didn’t have to have a shower tonight.  The water was so warm coming off the hot rocks it was almost like being in a shower!!

We checked out Wangi Falls on the way home, which had previously been closed because of the croc season but which, we didn’t know, had been opened as of today.  Anyway, no time for a swim but did have a stroll around.  It is very beautiful.  No wonder David brings the kids from Padua here.  Of course, he was devastated because that was one of his “dreams” – to bring the family here and swim all day.  Nevermind, we are fulfilling so many dreams – we are very blessed. 

Once home the kids got into a game of mini golf with the kids next door so we ended up having a drink … and dinner… and another drink.  Time for bed.  Off to Darwin tomorrow and I am very excited about seeing it!!  Have wanted to visit Darwin, ever since you worked there, Jo, back in ….. oh, too long ago!

BACHELOR (LITCHFIELD NATIONAL PARK)

50 year old termite mound

Ben at the Lost City - climbing as usual!

Tess and Beth at the Lost City, Litchfield

Bridget holding up the Lost City

An angel asleep at Buley Rockholes

Having fun in the water at Buley Rockholes

Even Mummy in the water at Buley

Tessie having a splash

DAY 26 – BATCHELOR (LITCHFIELD NATIONAL PARK)                                       Thursday, 28^th July

Today we were a bit slow off the mark but managed to see the Termite Mounds, one of which was over five metres tall and probably more than 50 years old!  Astonishing!  Then off to “The Lost City” which is a group of sedimentary and metamorphic rocks which really do look like old ruins of a city.  It really is quite eerie!  The kids loved exploring all the nooks and crannies and Ben just loves climbing as far as he possibly can.

We had lunch on the road before getting to Buley Rockhole which is a series of rockholes then waterfalls into the next rockhole, down through a gorge.  Just absolutely stunning.  Each rockhole was slightly different and the kids loved exploring each and sliding down some of the smaller waterfalls.  The weather was just beautiful and the rockholes have water so clear you can see to the bottom, except when the rockhole is incredibly deep.  Some are more than 4 metres deep!

After a couple of hours there we came home for some journal writing and R & R!  Very quiet until the kids went off scootering and the boy next door came off his and split open his chin.  Three stitches needed.  Unbelievably good service.  Down to the medical centre in Batchelor, three minutes away, pick up a phone at the door which automatically rings the nurse who arrives at the medical centre within 5 minutes.  She opened up the medical centre which looked exactly like a casualty department in the manner in which it was fitted out.  Three stitches, two injections, antibiotics and panadol later and he was back – all free of charge!!  If we had been at home, we would have sat in Frankston emergency for four hours with that!

Just going to bed when I realise I think my watch fell out at Buley Rockhole.  Easy to lose things when you are packing up and unpacking so often.  But just a great day which the kids really loved.

KATHERINE - BATCHELOR (LITCHFIELD NATIONAL PARK)

Bridget diving at Edith Falls

The kids were so good on all our walks

DAY 25 – KATHERINE -  BATCHELOR (LITCHFIELD NATIONAL PARK)           Wednesday, 27^th July

Chef David was hard at work this morning cooking French toast for the lazy chicks in bed.  It was delicious!!  We had a lazy morning and didn’t leave Katherine until about 10am – late for us! 

David had been for a walk around the area first thing in the morning and met up with a man who had just purchased 5 acres outside Katherine “to escape the rat race”.   David and I had a good chuckle about that!  There are about 5,500 people in Katherine.  I would hate him to see Melbourne!  He was, however, very interesting about the indigenous problem here which he says is getting worse and worse.  He has owned stores in indigenous communities and sees the problem of drugs becoming just as bad as the problem with alcohol.  He was interesting in that he has noticed that in previous years there have always been the Aboriginal elders who managed to pull the young guys into line if they got out of hand.  But these elders are now dying out and there is no-one with the leadership skills to take their place.  Previously if young men were out of control, they would conduct a tribal ceremony which often put them back in their place.  But the young men don’t conduct ceremonies anymore.  It is such an enormous problem

Off to Edith Falls which was absolutely beautiful.  Just this amazing oasis in the middle of nowhere.  The kids took a while to get in (it was rather cool!) and to feel comfortable swimming around waterholes but they found this amazing cave and waterhole with the most abundant plant and fish life!  David was impressed with the kids walking to the waterhole but, as they said, after the walk around Nitmiluk National Park, ANYTHING else is easy!!!

We popped into the Commonwealth War Cemetery outside Adelaide River on our way to Batchelor.  It was very interesting to see actually how many air raids were conducted over Darwin and the Northern Territory during WWII.  I had no idea.

Arrived in Batchelor in time to meet a nice family next to us from Wantirna.  We ended up having drinks and dinner together.  A beautiful balmy evening in Litchfield National Park.  Sitting outside in shorts and t-shirt until 10pm and then going to sleep with all the windows open, letting the gentle breeze caress you as you sleep ….. “living the dream!”   Sorry about that, you cold Victorian people!!

KATHERINE (NITMILUK NATIONAL PARK)

Father and Son overlooking Katherine Gorge

Mother and Daughter overlooking Katherine Gorge

Beth in the longed-for canoe ride on Katherine Gorge

DAY 24 – KATHERINE (NITMILUK NATIONAL PARK)                           Tuesday, 26^th July

Well, today was not what you would have called one of our more successful days.  It started off well – perfect weather …again!  So we drove out to Nitmiluk National Park to take in the sights and sounds of Katherine Gorge.  David, having been here the last two years, thought it best to take canoes at our own pace.  However, we then discovered that Beth and Ben could not go in a canoe by themselves.  Cruises are very expensive so we decided to hire one canoe which David and Tess would paddle down to Southern Waterhole and meet the rest of us.  There we would have lunch together and David would take the kids one by one out on the canoe and then paddle home with Bridgie while the rest of us walked back to the car.  The ranger assured us that this was a feasible plan, so off we went feeling very confident.

Sounds like a good plan, but I know all you Dads out there are feeling a little bit uncomfortable … thinking “We have all had a great plan like that …. which then goes completely wrong!!!”.  The walk was very difficult, very hot and VERY LONG.  We didn’t realise, but it was about 8.4 kms of really difficult walking over rocks, sand and boulders.  Lots of climbing up steep rocks and down into gorges.  By the time Beth, Ben, Bridget and I reached the waterhole, I had already decided that there was no way we could go back and David would just have to ferry us all back in the canoe to the carpark!  When we arrived at the waterhole it became obvious that you cannot reach the waterhole from the Katherine River by canoe and even the people at the waterhole said you cannot do it on foot.  So, with no way of contacting David, and not knowing if perhaps he was waiting somewhere on the Katherine River for us, I left the kids at the waterhole (don’t stress, Mum, it wasn’t TOO far) and took off to see if I could find him.  Arriving at the Katherine River I could see no sign of David up and down the River, so after having a small meltdown, I went back to the kids and informed them of the bad news – that they would have to walk the 4.5 kms back out of here.  Promised only a measly icecream, they were magnificent!  They did not complain once, even though it was 30 degrees and they had to climb and walk for another 2 hours to get back to the car.  Ben was beautiful helping his old Mum and Bethie was the best older sister, helping Bridgie all the time.  The only falter was when we ran out of water and had to walk almost 2 kms without water.  This is when Bridgie started telling me that she had rabies from the spinifex!!  Vintage Bridget.  Could not convince her that rabies does not come from spinifex.  But she did insist on hearing the story of my first love in Grade 4 over and over and over!!  Doesn’t it sound fun!!!!

I laugh now at my voice when I saw the watertank at the halfway mark!  I was almost hysterical!  “I can see it, Bridgie!”  I had to keep pretending that we were in John McDouall Stuart’s expedition from Adelaide to Darwin!! 

Meanwhile, my beautiful husband paddled for three hours to try to find us! He and poor Tessie had no food with them all day and they were aching from the paddling against the current!  I think he had a worse time than we did.  (David’s note:  “What do you mean “they were paddling”?)

David did manage get rid of the canoe and work out where we would come out eventually and came to rescue us!  He then did manage to convince the people at the Canoe Hire that he needed to give his other three children an experience of canoeing through the Katherine Gorge!  They were very happy they got the canoe ride in the end.  Needless to say the dip in the pool when we got home was very welcome – AND the icecream!   

We live and learn.  Often these stories are the ones you end up telling the most – and embellishing a little bit!! J  J